Quick Answer
A dripping tap is almost always caused by a worn washer, O-ring, or ceramic cartridge — and most Melbourne homeowners can fix it in under an hour for $5–$25 in parts. Turn off the water at the isolation valve under the sink, remove the tap handle, replace the faulty component, and reassemble. If the seat is damaged or the tap body is cracked, call a licensed plumber.
What You’ll Need
Before you turn off the water, gather everything so you’re not scrambling with wet hands:
| Item | Approx. Cost | Where to Get It |
|---|---|---|
| Adjustable spanner (15mm) | $15–$30 | Bunnings, Total Tools, Mitre 10 |
| Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers | Already own / $10–$20 | Any hardware store |
| Tap washer assortment pack | $5–$8 | Bunnings, Fix-A-Tap, Reece Plumbing |
| O-ring assortment kit | $6–$10 | Bunnings, local plumbing supplier |
| Ceramic cartridge (if quarter-turn tap) | $8–$20 | Reece Plumbing, Caroma spare parts |
| Plumber’s grease | $5–$10 | Bunnings, Reece Plumbing |
| Cloth or towel | $0 | At home |
| Small container (catch drips) | $0 | At home |
Why Taps Drip: The Melbourne Context
Melbourne’s water mains operate at relatively high pressure — typically 500–800 kPa depending on your suburb’s distance from the reservoir. In areas like Berwick, Narre Warren, and Pakenham, water hammer from high-pressure mains accelerates washer wear faster than in older inner-city suburbs. If you’re getting through washers every six months, ask your plumber to check line pressure at the meter; a pressure-limiting valve (PLV) costs $150–$250 installed and protects your entire plumbing system.
Older homes in Dandenong, Frankston, and Officer built pre-1990 commonly have pillar taps with rubber washers on a threaded spindle. Post-2000 homes and renovated bathrooms almost universally use quarter-turn ceramic disc cartridges — completely different to replace, but easier once you know the process.
Step-by-Step: Fixing a Dripping Tap
Step 1: Turn Off the Water Supply
Look under the sink for the isolation valve — a small oval handle on the supply pipe. Turn it clockwise (a quarter turn) until it stops. No isolation valve? Turn off the mains stopcock, usually at the meter near the front fence or inside a concrete pit in the garden. Turn on the tap to release residual pressure and confirm the flow has stopped.
Step 2: Remove the Tap Handle
Look for a decorative cap on top of the handle — prise it off with a flathead screwdriver to reveal a screw underneath. Remove the screw (usually Phillips), then pull the handle straight up. Some handles are stiff; wiggle gently rather than forcing them. If corroded, a drop of penetrating oil around the base and a 10-minute wait usually frees it.
Step 3: Remove the Bonnet and Spindle
Unscrew the bonnet nut (the hexagonal fitting holding the tap guts in place) using your adjustable spanner. Turn anticlockwise. Place a cloth between the spanner and the tap body to protect chrome finishes. With the bonnet off, unscrew the spindle — for pillar taps it threads out; for quarter-turn taps it lifts out with a slight push-and-turn.
Step 4: Replace the Washer or Cartridge
For pillar taps (rubber washer): At the bottom of the spindle you’ll see a rubber disc held by a small brass nut. Undo the nut, swap the washer for a new one of identical size, and tighten the nut. Don’t overtighten — snug is enough. While you’re in here, check the brass seat at the bottom of the tap body; if it’s pitted or grooved, the new washer won’t seal. A tap seat resurfacing tool ($15 from Bunnings) can grind it smooth, or replace the entire seat.
For quarter-turn ceramic taps: The cartridge lifts straight out. Note the orientation (there’s often a flat side or notch) before removing it. Slide in the new cartridge the same way, press firmly until it seats. No need to grease ceramic cartridges — Caroma and other brands supply them dry.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
Apply a small smear of plumber’s grease to the spindle threads or O-rings before reassembly — this prevents seizing and makes future repairs easier. Screw the spindle back in, tighten the bonnet nut firmly (but not gorilla-tight — overtightening strips brass threads), replace the handle, and refit the decorative cap. Slowly reopen the isolation valve. Turn the tap on and off once to seat the washer, then let it sit with the tap off and watch for drips for 30 seconds.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Still dripping after new washer | Damaged valve seat | Resurface seat with seat grinder tool, or replace seat insert |
| Tap leaks from around the handle | Worn O-ring on spindle | Replace O-ring — usually 12–15mm diameter |
| Handle spins freely but water doesn’t stop | Stripped spindle thread | Replace entire tap mechanism or call a licensed plumber |
| New cartridge still drips | Wrong cartridge size or orientation | Check brand match — Caroma, Methven, Grohe all use different sizes |
| Drip from base of tap (not spout) | Worn O-ring on tap body | Replace body O-ring; may require tap removal |
When to Call a Licensed Plumber
DIY tap repair is legal for homeowners in Victoria for simple washer and cartridge replacements. However, you must call a licensed plumber if:
- The tap body is cracked or the tap housing is corroded through
- You need to install or move the tap or its supply lines
- The water pressure problem requires fitting a pressure-limiting valve
- The tap is connected to a gas bayonet or other regulated fitting
- Work involves removing or modifying any component behind the wall
Top 10 Tips and Gotchas
- Take the old washer with you. Washer packs contain multiple sizes — matching by eye at the store is the most reliable way to get the right one.
- Caroma cartridges are brand-specific. A generic ceramic disc won’t fit a Caroma tap body — order from Caroma’s spare parts portal or ask at Reece Plumbing.
- Don’t overtighten the bonnet nut. Brass strips easily. Finger-tight plus a quarter-turn with the spanner is usually enough.
- High water pressure kills washers faster. If you’re replacing washers every few months, invest in a pressure-limiting valve.
- Quarter-turn taps aren’t all the same. Methven, Caroma, Grohe, and Dorf all use different cartridge sizes. Check the brand name stamped on the tap body.
- Inspect the O-rings while you’re in there. If they’re cracked or squashed flat, replace them — they’re $1 each and a leak from a failed O-ring makes a mess under the cabinet.
- Outdoor taps use jumper valves. Most garden taps in SE Melbourne suburbs are old-style pillar taps with 3/4-inch jumper valves, available at any hardware store for $2.
- Use penetrating oil on corroded handles. WD-40 or Inox on a stiff tap handle — wait 10 minutes before forcing. Forcing cold corroded handles cracks them.
- Laundry taps get more wear. Washing machine hot and cold taps are turned on and off hundreds of times per year — they typically need a washer replacement every 2–3 years.
- Check your water bill for early warning signs. Melbourne Water’s tiered pricing means even a 1L/minute drip costs around $600 per year on a typical water bill.
Local Resources
- Reece Plumbing — tap cartridges, washers, O-rings; branches in Dandenong, Frankston, Cranbourne
- Bunnings Warehouse — Fix-A-Tap washers, O-ring kits, adjustable spanners; stores at Cranbourne, Narre Warren, Fountain Gate
- Caroma Spare Parts — brand-specific ceramic cartridges for Caroma taps (very common in SE Melbourne homes)
- Total Tools — professional-grade adjustable spanners and tap tools if you’re doing multiple taps
- Melbourne Water — Saving Water — drip calculator and rebate info for water-efficient fixtures
- Victorian Building Authority — licensing checks for plumbers and what work requires a licensed tradesperson in Victoria
FAQ
Can I fix a dripping tap myself in Victoria?
Yes — replacing washers, O-rings, and ceramic cartridges is legal DIY work for homeowners in Victoria. You don’t need a licence for this. However, connecting or moving tap supply lines, or working on hot water system valves, requires a licensed plumber under the Plumbing Regulations 2018.
How much water does a dripping tap waste?
A tap dripping once per second wastes around 30 litres per day — over 10,000 litres per year. At Melbourne Water’s tiered rates (especially if you’re in the higher usage tier), that can add $300–$600 to your annual water bill. Fixing it the same day is almost always worth it.
My tap drips but only when I first turn it off — is that normal?
A brief drip of 2–3 seconds after closing a tap is normal as residual pressure dissipates. If it continues for longer than 10 seconds or reappears after a minute, the washer or cartridge needs replacing — the seal isn’t holding line pressure.
What’s the difference between a washer tap and a ceramic tap?
Washer (pillar) taps have a rubber disc that compresses onto a brass seat to stop flow — they require multiple turns to open and close. Ceramic (quarter-turn) taps have two ceramic discs that rotate 90 degrees to align or block the water path. Ceramic taps are smoother to operate and last longer under high pressure, but the cartridges are brand-specific and cost more to replace.
How often should tap washers be replaced?
In Melbourne homes with standard mains pressure, rubber washers in pillar taps typically last 2–5 years. Taps used more frequently (kitchen, laundry) wear faster. If you’re replacing washers more than once a year, have a plumber check the line pressure — high pressure accelerates wear on all plumbing components.
The tap still drips after I replaced the washer — what’s wrong?
Check the valve seat inside the tap body. If it’s scored or pitted, even a new washer won’t seal properly. You can resurface the seat using a tap seat grinder tool (available at Bunnings for $15), or replace the entire seat insert. If the seat is corroded through, or the tap body is damaged, replacement of the entire tap is the better long-term option.
Final Thoughts
Fixing a dripping tap is one of the most accessible home repairs you can do — the parts cost under $25, the tools are basic, and the payoff is immediate in lower water bills. Most SE Melbourne homes have either washer taps (pre-2000 builds) or ceramic disc taps (post-2000 or renovated), and both are straightforward once you’ve identified the type.
If the tap body is badly corroded, the thread is stripped, or the drip comes back within weeks of replacing the washer, it’s usually more economical to replace the entire tap fitting. A plumber can swap a tap set in under an hour for $150–$250 including parts — compare that to a year of inflated water bills and ongoing frustration.
