Quick Answer

Draught-proofing your Melbourne home costs $50–$400 DIY or $300–$900 professionally and can cut heating bills by 15–25%. Focus first on doors, windows, and the ceiling manhole — these account for up to 70% of heat loss in typical SE Melbourne homes. Most draught-proofing materials pay for themselves in a single winter.

Why Draught-Proofing Matters in Melbourne

Melbourne’s winter temperature routinely drops to 5–8°C overnight, and homes in SE suburbs like Berwick, Narre Warren, and Frankston on the bay can feel the cold intensely. Older homes (pre-1990) were built with minimal sealing, meaning gaps around doors, windows, floorboards, and ceiling access points let cold air flood in — and heated air escape.

According to the Your Home technical manual (federal government resource), air leakage accounts for 15–25% of heating energy use in Australian homes. In practice, a leaky SE Melbourne home running ducted gas heating can lose $200–$500 per year purely through gaps&ôhat cost less than $100 in materials to fix.

Where Heat Escapes: Priority Areas

Location Heat Loss % DIY Difficulty Materials Cost
Ceiling (including manhole) 25–35% Easy $10–$60
Walls (brick veneer gaps) 15–25% Moderate $20–$80
Windows 10–20% Easy¢€“Moderate $30–$150
Doors (external) 5–15% Easy $20–$80
Floor (under suspended timber floors) 10–20% Moderate $50–$200
Exhaust fans, flues, vents 5–10% Easy $15–$50

Step-by-Step: Draught-Proofing Your Home

Step 1: Find the Draughts

On a cold windy day, slowly move your hand around door and window frames, skirting boards, power points on external walls, and the ceiling manhole. A thin strip of tissue paper held near suspect areas will flutter if there’s air movement. You can also use a lit incense stick — the smoke will drift toward gaps. Mark every gap you find with painter’s tape before you start buying materials.

Step 2: Seal External Door Gaps

Door draughts come from three places: the bottom gap, the sides and top (the rebate), and keyholes. For the bottom gap, fit a door sweep (aluminium strip with neoprene brush — around $15–$25 from Bunnings) or a draught excluder with automatic drop mechanism ($60–$120). For the rebate, peel-and-stick foam tape works well on interior doors; for external doors, V-strip draught excluder lasts longer. For old-style keyholes, a keyhole cover plate ($5–$10) makes a surprising difference.

Pro tip: When fitting a door sweep, check the door still opens freely across floor coverings. A sweep set too low will drag on tiles or carpet and wear out prematurely.

Step 3: Seal Window Gaps

Timber-framed sash windows (common in Frankston and older Dandenong homes) develop gaps as timber shrinks and expands with seasons. Compressible foam tape ($8–$15 per roll from Mitre 10) works for many window types but needs replacing every 2–3 years. For sash windows, V-strip (pile weatherstrip) lasts longer and allows the window to still operate smoothly. Sliding aluminium windows may have worn brush seals — these can be replaced with matching pile weatherstrip available from window hardware suppliers.

Step 4: Seal the Ceiling Manhole

The ceiling access hatch is one of the biggest single gaps in any home. It typically sits in a hallway or cupboard and is a direct connection between heated living space and cold roof space. Fit a draught seal around the manhole frame (foam tape or rubber strip), then place a piece of rigid insulation on top of the hatch cover inside the roof space. This one fix can noticeably reduce heating costs in homes with accessible roof cavities.

Step 5: Address Exhaust Fans and Flues

Bathroom exhaust fans are a major draught source — when not in use, the fan flap allows cold air to flow back in. Replace old exhaust fans with models that have positive-seal back-draft shutters. For open fireplaces or flues no longer in use, a chimney balloon (fitted inside the flue) blocks cold air completely — around $50–$80 from specialty fireplace suppliers. Never block an active flue or a flue connected to a gas appliance.

Safety warning: Never seal the flue of an active gas appliance, wood heater, or any combustion device. Blocking a gas flue can cause carbon monoxide to accumulate inside the home. Only seal decommissioned, unused flues — confirm with a licensed gas fitter if unsure.

Step 6: Address Suspended Timber Floors

Many older SE Melbourne homes (pre-1970s in Frankston, Dandenong, and Berwick) have suspended timber floors over a subfloor air space. Cold air rises through gaps between floorboards and around skirting boards. Fitting skirting board gap sealer (flexible silicone sealant, $10–$15 per tube) addresses the perimeter. For the floor itself, covering with rugs provides immediate warmth. Professional subfloor insulation batts installed beneath suspended floors ($2,000–$4,000) is the best long-term solution.

DIY vs Professional Draught-Proofing

Approach Cost Best For Limitations
DIY complete home seal $80–$300 Standard doors, windows, manholes Time: 4–8 hours; may miss some gaps
Professional audit + sealing $300–$700 Older homes, comprehensive seal Higher cost but more thorough
Pro with blower door test $500–$900 Pre-purchase, high-end renovation Overkill for standard homes

The Victorian government’s Victorian Energy Upgrades (VEU) program provides subsidised draught-proofing for eligible households — check current eligibility as offerings change annually. Some accredited providers offer free or heavily subsidised draught-proofing under the scheme.

Top Tips and Gotchas

  1. Start with doors — biggest return for least effort. A $20 door sweep on the front door often makes the most noticeable immediate difference to draughts.
  2. Don’t seal ventilation bricks. Subfloor ventilation bricks in brick veneer homes must remain open to prevent moisture buildup under the house. Only seal gaps, not vents.
  3. Check the hot water flue cupboard. Many homes have a gas hot water flue passing through an internal cupboard — gaps around the flue pipe are a major heat loss point. Seal with high-temperature silicone.
  4. Foam tape degrades over time. Check and replace foam weatherstripping every 2–3 years. V-strip and rubber seals last 5–10 years and are worth the higher upfront cost on frequently used doors.
  5. Power points on external walls leak. Draught excluder pads behind power point covers ($2–$5 each at electrical suppliers) seal a surprising amount of cold air from cavity walls.
  6. Window curtains are draught management. Thick, floor-length curtains with a pelmet box trap a significant amount of cold air from windows. They work with, not instead of, window sealing.
  7. Check the VEU program each year. Victoria’s energy upgrade subsidies change annually. What was unavailable last year may be subsidised this year.
  8. Seal before you insulate. Draught-proofing first makes insulation more effective. If your ceiling insulation is fine but your manhole is unsealed, you’re losing a significant chunk of the insulation benefit.

Local Melbourne Resources

Frequently Asked Questions

How much can draught-proofing save on heating bills in Melbourne?

In a typical older Melbourne home, comprehensive draught-proofing can reduce heating bills by 15–25%. On a $1,200 annual heating bill, that’s $180–$300 in savings per year. The DIY materials cost $80–$300, meaning most homeowners recover the investment within a single winter. Homes with suspended timber floors or older sash windows see the biggest savings.

What is the best draught seal for the bottom of doors?

For external doors, an automatic door bottom (which drops a neoprene or brush seal when the door closes and lifts when it opens) is the most effective — around $60–$120 from hardware stores. For a budget option, a stainless steel door sweep with neoprene brush ($15–$25) works well on smooth floor surfaces. Avoid foam-only door draft snakes as they only work when manually positioned and don’t seal the door when it’s open.

Can I block my old fireplace to stop draughts?

Yes — a chimney balloon (inflatable seal fitted inside the flue) is the best solution for decommissioned fireplaces. They cost $50–$80 and block cold air completely. You can deflate and remove it if you ever use the fireplace again. Never block an active flue connected to a gas appliance or wood heater — this is a carbon monoxide risk. Check with a licensed gas fitter if unsure about the fireplace’s status.