Quick Answer
A modern 400–500L fridge-freezer costs $120–$200 per year to run in Melbourne at current electricity rates (~$0.32/kWh). An older, inefficient fridge (10+ years) can cost $280–$450 per year. Upgrading from a 2-star to a 5-star energy-rated fridge typically saves $80–$170 per year — often paying for itself within 5–8 years on electricity savings alone.
How Much Does a Fridge Cost to Run?
Your fridge is one of the only appliances that runs 24 hours a day, every day of the year. Over a decade, it can cost more in electricity than you originally paid for it. Understanding fridge running costs helps you make smarter buying decisions — and identify when an old model is costing you more than it should.
Melbourne households on Powercor, CitiPower, or Jemena typically pay 28–38 cents per kWh in 2026. We use $0.32/kWh as a mid-range reference throughout.
Running Cost by Fridge Type
| Fridge Type | Typical Size | Annual kWh | Est. Annual Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bar fridge (single door) | 50–120L | 100–200 kWh | $32–$64/year |
| Top-mount fridge-freezer | 250–360L | 200–380 kWh | $64–$122/year |
| Bottom-mount fridge-freezer | 300–500L | 250–450 kWh | $80–$144/year |
| French door fridge-freezer | 500–750L | 350–600 kWh | $112–$192/year |
| Side-by-side fridge-freezer | 550–800L | 400–650 kWh | $128–$208/year |
| Old pre-2010 fridge (2-star) | 300–450L | 600–900 kWh | $192–$288/year |
Running Cost by Energy Star Rating (400L fridge)
| Star Rating | Efficiency | Annual kWh | Annual Cost | Saving vs 2-star |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 stars | Very poor | 700–900 kWh | $224–$288 | — |
| 3 stars | Average | 500–650 kWh | $160–$208 | ~$60–80/yr |
| 4 stars | Good | 380–480 kWh | $122–$154 | ~$100–130/yr |
| 5 stars | Excellent | 250–370 kWh | $80–$118 | ~$140–170/yr |
| 6+ stars | Best available | 180–260 kWh | $58–$83 | ~$160–200/yr |
What Makes a Fridge More Expensive to Run?
1. Age
Fridges manufactured before 2010 typically consume 40–60% more energy than an equivalent modern model. Compressor technology, insulation quality, and refrigerant efficiency have all improved significantly. If your fridge is over 12 years old, it is very likely your most expensive always-on appliance.
2. Location and Ambient Temperature
Placing your fridge next to the oven, in a poorly ventilated laundry, or in a hot garage in Melbourne’s summer forces the compressor to run harder and longer. A fridge in a 35–40°C garage can cost 30–50% more to run than the same model in a cool kitchen. Ensure there is at least 5cm of clearance behind and above the fridge for heat to dissipate.
3. Temperature Settings
Every degree colder than necessary adds roughly 5% to running cost. The ideal settings are 3–4°C for the fridge compartment and -18°C for the freezer. Many household fridges are accidentally set 2–3°C colder than needed — use a cheap thermometer to verify yours.
4. Door Seals
Worn or cracked seals allow cold air to escape constantly. Test yours with a piece of paper: close the door on it and try to pull it out. If it slides easily, the seal needs replacing. A faulty seal can add 10–20% to annual running cost. Replacement seal kits cost $25–$80 from appliance parts suppliers.
5. Condenser Coils
The coils on the back or underneath your fridge radiate heat away from the refrigerant. When coated in dust and pet hair, they lose efficiency — like covering a radiator with a blanket. Vacuum them once a year with a brush attachment.
Old Fridge vs New: When Does It Pay to Upgrade?
| Scenario | Annual Running Cost | 10-Year Electricity Cost | Total 10-Year Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Keep 12-yr-old 2-star fridge | $256/year | $2,560 | $2,560 (no purchase cost) |
| New 5-star 400L fridge | $100/year | $1,000 | $1,900 (incl. ~$900 purchase) |
| New 6-star 400L fridge | $70/year | $700 | $1,800 (incl. ~$1,100 purchase) |
Tips and Gotchas
- Don’t overstuff the fridge — blocking internal vents stops air circulation and forces the compressor to cycle more frequently.
- Let hot food cool before refrigerating — placing a hot dish directly in the fridge raises internal temperature and triggers extended cooling cycles.
- Defrost the freezer when ice exceeds 5mm — frost buildup insulates the cooling coils and reduces efficiency significantly.
- Keep the fridge at least 70% full — thermal mass holds cold when the door opens. A sparse fridge loses cold air much faster.
- Check door seals with the paper test — if the paper slides out easily when the door is closed, the seal is worn and needs replacing.
- Use a thermometer, not the dial setting — most fridge dials are not calibrated in degrees; verify actual temperature with a $5–$10 thermometer.
- Don’t put the fridge near the oven or dishwasher — heat from adjacent appliances increases the compressor’s workload and running cost.
- When buying, compare the kWh figure on the label — not just the star rating — two 5-star fridges can differ by 100 kWh/year depending on size and design.
Local Melbourne Resources
- Australian Energy Rating Database — Refrigerators — compare annual kWh for every registered fridge model sold in Australia
- Victorian Energy Upgrades Program — rebates may be available for replacing inefficient appliances; check eligibility online
- Bunnings stocks plug-in energy monitors ($30–$50), fridge thermometers, and door seal adhesive strips
- Jaycar Electronics — power monitors and thermometers across SE Melbourne including Dandenong, Frankston, and Moorabbin stores
- Search “fridge door seal replacement Melbourne” for local appliance parts suppliers — Dandenong and Ringwood have multiple stockists serving SE suburbs
Frequently Asked Questions
How much electricity does a fridge use per day?
A modern 400–500L fridge-freezer uses roughly 0.8–1.5 kWh per day, depending on its energy star rating and usage. At Melbourne rates of ~$0.32/kWh, that is 26–48 cents per day, or $90–$175 per year. An older pre-2010 model can use 2–3 kWh per day, costing $230–$350 per year.
Does a fridge in the garage cost more to run?
Yes — significantly. A fridge in a hot, uninsulated Melbourne garage can cost 30–50% more to run than the same fridge in a cool kitchen. Some fridges are not designed to operate above 38°C ambient temperature and may fail to maintain safe food temperatures on very hot days. Look for “climate class T” or “SN-T” fridges if placing one in a garage.
How do I calculate my fridge’s running cost?
Check the yellow Energy Rating label on your fridge — it shows the annual kWh under Australian test conditions. Multiply that number by your electricity rate (shown on your bill as c/kWh). For example, a 360 kWh/year fridge at $0.32/kWh costs $115.20 per year. For a real-world measurement, plug the fridge into an energy monitor from Bunnings or Jaycar ($30–$50) for a week and extrapolate.
Is it worth replacing a 10-year-old fridge to save electricity?
If your fridge is 10–15 years old, rated 2–3 stars, and running costs are high, upgrading to a 5-star model typically saves $100–$170 per year. A new fridge at $900–$1,200 pays back in 6–10 years on energy savings alone — shorter if the old fridge also needs repairs. Use the Energy Rating comparison tool to calculate the exact saving for any specific model.
Should I turn off my second fridge to save power?
Yes — if a second fridge runs mostly empty (garage beer fridge, spare bar fridge), unplugging it when not needed can save $80–$150 per year in electricity. A near-empty fridge is actually less efficient per kWh than a full one, because it has less thermal mass to hold temperature when the door opens. Switch it on a week before it’s needed (for parties, holidays, etc.).
