Why does my fireplace smoke when I first light it?

A cold flue creates an air plug that pushes smoke back into the room. Fix it by holding a lit twist of newspaper in the firebox for one to two minutes before adding kindling to warm the flue and establish an upward draught. If smoking persists, check for a blockage, creosote buildup, or a stuck damper.

Do I need a carbon monoxide detector with an open fireplace?

Yes. Victorian fire safety guidelines recommend CO detectors in homes with solid-fuel heaters. A blocked or downdrafting flue can allow CO to build up in the room. Detectors cost $30-$80 and are a straightforward safety measure.

Is it safe to use an open fireplace if the mortar has cracks?

Small hairline cracks under 2-3mm wide are common and not dangerous — fill them with high-temperature fireplace mortar. Large cracks, loose bricks, or cracks in the chimney stack need a licensed bricklayer or chimney specialist to assess before use.

How to Check Your Fireplace and Chimney Before Using It This Winter (Melbourne Guide)

Q: Can I use chimney cleaning logs instead of a professional sweep?

Chimney cleaning logs are useful for loosening Stage 1 creosote deposits and reducing buildup between sweeps. They are not a replacement for physical sweeping and won't clear Stage 2 or 3 creosote or remove blockages. Use them as a maintenance tool, not a substitute for an inspection.

Q: What wood burns best in an open fireplace in Melbourne?

Dry seasoned hardwood with moisture below 20% is best: ironbark, redgum, and box produce a long hot burn with minimal creosote. Avoid pine, treated timber, pallet wood, or painted timber. Local firewood yards at Pakenham, Officer, and Cranbourne generally stock well-seasoned ironbark.

Published: 1 July 2026

Skill level: Handyperson | Time: 1–2 hours | Cost: $0–$50 for DIY checks; $150–$300 for a professional chimney sweep if needed

Quick Answer

Before you light the first fire of the season, you need to check five things: the damper opens freely, the flue draws properly, there’s no significant creosote buildup or bird nests blocking the chimney, the firebox mortar is intact, and your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms are working. Most checks take under an hour and cost nothing — but skipping them can lead to a chimney fire or carbon monoxide poisoning inside your home.

Melbourne’s south-eastern suburbs — Frankston, Mornington, Berwick, Narre Warren and Pakenham — have a large proportion of homes built between the 1950s and 1980s with open fireplaces as the primary heating source. Many of those fireplaces sat unused through spring and summer, giving birds, leaves, and creosote time to cause problems. Opening up a flue that hasn’t been used in six months without checking it first is one of the most common causes of house fires in Victoria during winter.

This guide walks you through a systematic safety check you can do yourself on a Saturday morning, plus tells you clearly when the job needs a licensed chimney sweep.

A renovator inspecting the interior of a brick fireplace with a torch before winter use in a Melbourne home — Inspecting the interior of a brick fireplace before lighting the first fire of winter — checking damper operation, flue condition, and creosote levels takes less than an hour and could prevent a chimney fire.

What You’ll Need

Tools

Tool	Cost	Where to Get It
Strong torch (flashlight)	Already have / $15–$30	Most hardware stores
Small mirror (dental-style or compact)	$3–$10	Chemist or dollar store
Latex or nitrile gloves	$8–$15 for a pack	Bunnings, Mitre 10
Dust mask (P2 rating)	$5–$15	Bunnings, Total Tools
Old clothes or overalls	Already have	—
Old newspaper or drop sheet	Already have	—
Carbon monoxide detector	$30–$80	Bunnings, Mitre 10, JB Hi-Fi

Materials

Material	Cost	Notes
Dry seasoned hardwood (ironbark, redgum)	$80–$150/cubic metre	Firewood merchants, local farms SE Melbourne
Firelighters (natural)	$8–$15 per box	Avoid petrol-based; use compressed wood or wax
Chimney cleaning log (optional)	$15–$25	Treats light creosote — not a substitute for sweeping

Step-by-Step Inspection and Safety Check

Step 1: Clear the Firebox and Protect the Room

Lay old newspaper on the floor in front of the fireplace and wear your old clothes before you start. Remove any old ash from the firebox — use a shovel and metal bucket, never a plastic one, as embers can hide in ash for 48 hours. Leave a thin layer of ash (about 2cm) on the floor of the firebox; it acts as insulation and helps future fires burn better.

Close off the room if you can — soot falls when you probe the flue, and it travels further than you expect.

Pro tip: Cold ash can contain hidden live embers for up to 48 hours after a fire. Always use a metal bucket and lid for ash disposal, never a cardboard box or plastic bin. Many chimney fires start this way.

Step 2: Test the Damper

The damper is a metal plate inside the flue that controls airflow. When open, it allows smoke to escape; when closed, it stops cold air from coming down the chimney in summer. Locate the damper handle — it’s usually a lever or rotating knob inside the firebox at the top, or sometimes a pull-rod on the mantel face.

Open the damper fully and look up into the flue with your torch. You should see daylight — even a small patch of sky — if the chimney is unobstructed. If you can’t see daylight but can feel a slight draught, the flue may be clear but turning. If you feel no airflow at all, there could be a blockage.

Looking up inside a brick chimney flue showing an open damper plate with daylight visible above — Looking up the flue with a damper in the open position — daylight visible above confirms the chimney is unobstructed; no daylight suggests a blockage such as a bird nest or debris accumulation.

Safety warning: Never light a fire with the damper closed. Smoke will fill the room in seconds, triggering smoke alarms and creating a serious carbon monoxide risk. If you’re unsure whether the damper is open, do not light the fire until you’ve confirmed it.

Step 3: Check for Creosote Buildup

Creosote is a black or brown residue that builds up inside chimneys when wood burns incompletely — particularly green (unseasoned) wood or fires that smoulder at low temperatures. There are three stages of creosote buildup, and only Stage 1 can you manage yourself:

Stage 1 (dusty, flaky black soot): Normal — wipe off with a chimney brush or use a chimney cleaning log
Stage 2 (tar-like, shiny black coating): Requires professional chimney sweep — do not use the fireplace until cleared
Stage 3 (thick, hard glaze): Serious fire risk — requires specialist treatment and possibly flue relining

Use your torch and mirror to look up from inside the firebox. A thin dusty deposit is fine; anything shiny, tar-like, or more than 3mm thick means you need a sweep before using the fireplace this winter.

Pro tip: If you burned mostly pine or softwood last winter, or frequently let fires die down to smoulder overnight, you’re more likely to have Stage 2 creosote. Pine produces three times more creosote than ironbark or redgum — always burn dry hardwood.

Step 4: Look for Blockages and Bird Nests

Swallows, sparrows, and starlings frequently nest in unprotected chimney flues over spring and summer — it’s particularly common in the older clay-pot and brick chimneys found across Frankston, Mornington, and the older parts of Berwick. From inside the firebox, shine your torch upward and look for:

Straw or grass clumps (nesting material)
Feathers or dried droppings
Reduced or absent daylight from the top
Debris or leaves from nearby trees

If you find a nest, do not attempt to dislodge it by lighting a small fire — this is how chimney fires start. Contact a chimney sweep or call your local council’s animal management team if nesting birds are still present (native species are protected under Victorian law).

A renovator and safety expert checking a brick chimney flue for creosote and blockages in a Melbourne home — Checking the flue for creosote, debris, and bird nests from inside the firebox — the most important annual check before lighting the first winter fire; any blockage must be cleared before use.

Step 5: Inspect the Firebox, Surround, and Mantel

With your torch, carefully look at:

Firebox mortar and bricks: Cracks in the firebox or hearth can allow heat to reach combustible materials in the wall. Small hairline cracks in the mortar are normal with thermal expansion, but gaps wider than 3mm or crumbling mortar need repointing before use.
Lintel: The metal bar or brick arch above the firebox opening. Rust or sagging indicates structural issues — do not use until assessed.
Hearth surround: Check that the non-combustible hearth extends at least 300mm in front of the fireplace opening (Australian Standard AS 2918). Timber or carpet too close to the opening is a fire hazard.
Mantel clearance: Timber mantels need a minimum 500mm clearance from the top of the firebox opening — if yours is closer, fit a heat deflector before using the fireplace.

Step 6: Test Alarms, Install a CO Detector, and Prepare Your First Fire

Before lighting up for the season, press the test button on your smoke alarm and carbon monoxide detector. Both should beep within a few seconds. If the battery is flat or the unit is over 10 years old, replace it now — not after the first fire.

Carbon monoxide detectors are mandatory in Melbourne homes with solid-fuel heaters under recent Victorian fire safety guidelines. A basic unit costs $30–$60 at Bunnings or Mitre 10 and should be mounted at sleeping height (1.5m) near the fireplace or in the main corridor.

For your first fire, start small — one or two sheets of newspaper and two small, dry kindling sticks — and leave the door to the room open to encourage a good draught. A small “warming fire” for the first 15 minutes establishes the thermal column up the chimney and prevents smoke spilling into the room.

A safety expert mounting a carbon monoxide detector on the wall near a brick fireplace in a Melbourne home — Mounting a carbon monoxide detector near the fireplace before the first use of winter — CO is odourless and can build up quickly when a flue is partially blocked, making a working detector essential rather than optional.

Troubleshooting Table

Problem	Likely Cause	Fix
Smoke blows back into the room	Damper closed, cold flue, blocked chimney, or negative air pressure in the room	Open damper fully; hold burning newspaper in firebox for 1–2 minutes to warm flue before lighting main fire; open a window slightly to break negative pressure
Strong cold draught coming down chimney	Damper not sealing when closed	Replace or adjust damper plate; or fit a chimney balloon (inflatable plug) when fireplace is not in use
Persistent sulphur or rotten-egg smell	Creosote or animal remains in flue; also possible gas leak nearby	Arrange chimney sweep before use; if smell is strong or persistent, evacuate and call gas emergency line (1800 GAS GAS)
Slow-to-draw fire, lots of smoke	Unseasoned (green) wood, or partial blockage above	Only burn seasoned hardwood with moisture content below 20%; arrange chimney inspection if problem persists
Visible cracks in firebox mortar or brickwork	Thermal cycling over years, or settling	Hairline cracks: use fireplace mortar from hardware store ($15–$25). Large cracks or loose bricks: call a licensed bricklayer or chimney specialist before using

When to Call a Professional

Book a licensed chimney sweep (look for members of the Chimney Safety Institute of Australia or tradesperson with specific flue experience) for:

Any Stage 2 or Stage 3 creosote buildup
Bird nest removal
Structural cracks or loose bricks in the firebox
A flue that has not been swept in more than two years
A history of house fires or a chimney fire
Installation of a flue cap or spark arrestor (recommended for homes in SE Melbourne’s bushfire management overlay areas around Officer, Pakenham, and Cardinia Shire)

A professional chimney sweep in Melbourne typically charges $150–$300 for a standard open fireplace sweep and inspection. This is money well spent: a single chimney fire can result in thousands of dollars of damage and, in the worst cases, total loss of the property.

Safety warning: Australian Standard AS 2918 and the Building Code of Australia set minimum clearances and construction standards for solid-fuel heaters. If your fireplace was built without a hearth extension, or if the clearances from combustible materials are not met, it must be rectified before use. This is not optional — insurers can refuse claims after a fire if the installation did not comply.

Tips and Gotchas

Season your firewood properly. Freshly cut wood — even hardwood — contains up to 60% moisture and produces excessive smoke, low heat, and rapid creosote buildup. Buy firewood in late summer for the following winter, or look for wood stamped with moisture content below 20%. In SE Melbourne, ironbark and redgum from local firewood merchants at Officer, Pakenham, and Cranbourne markets are reliable choices.
Never burn household rubbish, treated timber, or particleboard. Formaldehyde, glues, and chemicals in treated timber release toxic fumes that a chimney cannot safely expel. This also applies to pallet wood, which may be treated with methyl bromide.
Fit a chimney cap or spark arrestor if you haven’t already. Flue caps keep rain, leaves, and birds out over summer. Spark arrestors are required in many bushfire-prone outer SE suburbs under the CFA’s building guidelines.
Don’t bank overnight fires. Smouldering fires at very low temperatures produce far more creosote than a clean, hot burn. If you want a longer-lasting fire, use a larger piece of well-seasoned wood and let it burn naturally — don’t restrict the air supply to keep it going overnight.
Keep a fire guard in place. An ember or spark escaping the firebox onto a timber floor or rug can start a fire before you notice it. A proper mesh fire guard that covers the full opening of the firebox is non-negotiable.
Check your house insurance policy. Many home and contents policies in Victoria require fireplaces to be in “good working order and regularly maintained” — meaning an annual sweep if used regularly. Keep records and receipts of chimney sweeps in case of a claim.
Open a window slightly when lighting up. Modern homes are better sealed than older ones, which can create negative air pressure that draws smoke back into the room. A slightly open window while establishing the draught fixes this.
Check for wildlife before the season starts. If you haven’t used the fireplace since last winter, shine your torch up before you do anything else. A possum sheltering in the flue is more common than you’d think in leafy SE Melbourne suburbs.

A safety expert holding a mesh fire guard in front of a burning fireplace in a Melbourne home — A properly fitted mesh fire guard covering the full firebox opening is essential whenever a fire is burning — embers can jump out unexpectedly and ignite carpet or timber flooring within seconds.

FAQ

How often does an open fireplace chimney need to be swept in Melbourne?

If you use the fireplace regularly (more than 10 fires per season), have it swept once a year before winter. Occasional users (a few fires a season) can extend this to every two years, but should still do the DIY visual check each season. The Chimney Safety Institute of Australia recommends annual sweeps for any frequently used solid-fuel heater.

Can I use those chimney cleaning logs instead of a professional sweep?

Chimney cleaning logs (such as Creosote Sweeping Log) are useful for loosening Stage 1 creosote deposits and reducing buildup between sweeps — they’re not a replacement for physical sweeping. They work by releasing chemicals that make dry, flaky deposits easier to dislodge, but they don’t remove Stage 2 or Stage 3 creosote and won’t clear blockages. Use them as a maintenance tool, not as a substitute for an inspection.

My fireplace smokes a lot when I first light it. Is something wrong?

In most cases, a cold flue is the problem. Cold air sitting in the chimney creates a “plug” that pushes smoke back into the room when you first light up. Fix it by holding a lit twist of newspaper in the firebox for one to two minutes before adding kindling — this warms the flue and establishes an upward draught. If smoking persists after the flue is warm, check for a blockage, creosote buildup, or a closed or stuck damper.

Do I need a carbon monoxide detector if I have an open fireplace?

Yes. Under Victorian fire safety guidelines and AS 3000, homes with solid-fuel heaters should have a working CO detector. Unlike a gas heater, an open fireplace is not sealed, but a blocked or downdrafting flue can still allow CO to build up to dangerous levels in the room. The detectors cost $30–$80 and could save your life — it’s a straightforward decision.

What wood burns best in an open fireplace in Melbourne?

Dry, seasoned hardwood is by far the best choice — ironbark, redgum, and box produce a long, hot burn with minimal creosote. Moisture content should be below 20%; you can test this with a cheap timber moisture meter ($20–$40 from hardware stores). Avoid pine, treated timber, pallet wood, or anything painted or stained. In SE Melbourne, local firewood yards at Pakenham, Officer, and Cranbourne generally stock well-seasoned ironbark.

Is it safe to use an open fireplace if the mortar has some cracks?

Small hairline cracks in the firebox mortar are very common and are caused by years of thermal expansion and contraction — these are not dangerous if they’re less than 2–3mm wide and not penetrating through the brickwork. You can fill them with high-temperature fireplace mortar available from hardware stores. However, large cracks, loose bricks, a crumbling firebox floor, or cracks in the external chimney stack need a licensed bricklayer or chimney specialist to assess before you use the fireplace this winter.

Local Melbourne Resources

Bunnings — Fire Safety Products (CO detectors, fire guards, high-temp mortar, firelighters)
Total Tools — Safety Equipment (P2 dust masks, work gloves, torches)
CFA Victoria — Home Fire Safety (chimney safety guidelines, spark arrestor requirements for bushfire zones)
Fire Rescue Victoria — Home Fire Safety (CO alarm requirements, escape planning)
Mitre 10 — fireplace accessories, chimney cleaning supplies

For professional chimney sweeping services in SE Melbourne, search for “chimney sweep Melbourne” on hipages.com.au or ServiceSeeking, and ask specifically about creosote assessment and flue lining inspection.

Final Thoughts

The ten minutes it takes to inspect your damper, shine a torch up your flue, and test your smoke alarm could prevent one of the most devastating things that can happen to a Melbourne home in winter — a chimney fire or CO poisoning event. The DIY checks in this guide are genuinely straightforward, and the only time you need to spend money is when a professional sweep is called for — which is the right call for Stage 2 creosote, bird nests, or structural issues.

For the majority of Melbourne homeowners who burned dry hardwood last season and haven’t noticed any problems, this seasonal check will take an hour and cost nothing. Do it before July gets any colder.